Using a horn rim on alto horn

November 2, 2012

We get a lot of inquiries from people about mouthpieces for doubling, especially between horn and instruments with similar size mouthpieces: trumpet, alto horn, mellophone. The following letter is typical.

Hello,

My wife is a French Horn and Alto Horn player who tells me she would like an Alto Horn mouthpiece with a French Horn Rim.  She referred me to ******  who sent me to your website.  We play in the ***** Brass Band.

Her French Horn mouthpiece is a Constellation 7BW (picture attached).  Her Alto mouthpiece is whatever was in the case (Salvation Army loaner).  I can get that model if you need it.

How to proceed?

Here’s our response:

Hi Dan,

I think the best way to proceed is to first convert the alto horn mouthpiece to accept screw rims. You could then fit a new rim of whatever size or shape you wanted. You then have a number of choices:
1. Buy another Conn 7BW and have the rim threaded so that you could screw it onto the alto horn cup. Assuming the two Conn rims are reasonably identical, this would be the most economical choice.
2. Buy another Conn 7BW and thread the cup to accept screw rims. Then convert the original mouthpiece to a screw rim. This would allow you to use the same rim on both cups.
3. Thread the 7BW to accept screw rims and buy a new screw rim. (Our CH rim is very close to the Conn rim.) You would have a new rim and, if you wanted, you could buy a second identical rim so she won’t have to change rims when she changes instruments. Our rims are much more consistent than factory rims and our plating is more durable.
4. Thread the 7BW to accept screw rims and have her rim duplicated and use one or two copies on the horn and alto horn cups. If she is very sensitive to the rim contour and wants two rims this is the best option.
To give you an idea of the costs involved:
Thread a cup to accept screw rims or a rim to accept screw cups-$40
Conn mouthpiece-about $50
Osmun CH rim-$85 in gold, $75 in silver
Rim duplication-$75
If you need any more information please give me a call.
Regards,
Bob Osmun

Why Do My Valves Click?

November 1, 2012
by Bob OsmunWe’ve all heard it: the annoying clatter of a set of noisy valves. The sound can range from merely annoying in a casual playing situation to downright disastrous, in a recital or close-miked recording session. What causes this noise, and what can be done to prevent or eliminate it?

Causes of noise in valves

Parts of a Rotary ValveThere are several possible sources for the noise you hear. Loose stop plate or stop arm retaining screws are one common source. Badly mis-aligned valves caused by worn, broken, or missing bumpers that allow the stop arm to hit the stop plate or bent linkages that hit the stop arm are among the possible culprits, as are worn mechanical linkages. Another very-hard-to-diagnose source of noise is unsoldered indexing pins on Paxman and King horns. All these are possible, but the most common source of noisy valves is end play.

End Play: What is it?

End play is excess clearance in a valve assembly that allows the rotor to move vertically in its casing. When you press a valve lever it puts pressure on the rotor shaft, which responds by turning. When it has turned as far as it can it still needs to respond to the pressure and it does so by moving up in the casing. When the rotor moves upward as far as it can it smacks into the thrust bearing on the bearing plate, producing a click. If you have a horn with noisy valves you can demonstrate this by simply pushing up on the end of the rotor shaft.

Where does it come from?

At one time, especially here in the US, makers were incredibly casual about end play. Many horns arrived brand new with significant vertical movement in the valves and no one thought much about it. As better made European instruments started to become more widely available people started to realize that noisy valves were not something they had to put up with and American makers responded with much better fit valves.

Another source of end play, obviously, is wear. Especially when valves are not properly cared for mechanical wear can cause significant vertical play in only a few years. The longer this goes uncorrected the more the problem is exacerbated. One or two thousandths of an inch can cause problems; older instruments with ten or twelve thousandths are not uncommon.

End play is adjusted by hand in the assembly process. It is a ticklish adjustment that requires skill. Some manufacturers (including some very good ones) build instruments with too little end play. The bearing plate, if seated all the way down into the casing, will cause the valve to bind. When the assembler puts the valves together he will tap the end of the rotor shaft to push the bearing plate out enough so that the valve will turn. Someone skilled and careful can do this so that the valves remain tight but in the hands of someone less skilled and well trained, like many of the repairmen out there, it can be a recipe for disaster.

To me, one of the most annoying sources of end play is caused by careless manufacture of the top cap. As we heard earlier, when the rotor reaches the end of its rotation it tends to push up in the casing. This upward force, repeated thousands of times, tends to push the bearing plate up in the casing, causing end play. The purpose of the top cap is to hold down the bearing plate. If the threads are too long the cap will rest on the outside of the casing rather than the plate. This creates a gap that allows the bearing plate to move up.

How can it be corrected?

The first thing to do it try some oil on it. Many horns are allowed to run completely dry. The best oil to use is a bearing oil specifically made for musical instruments. (At Osmun, we use Hetman lubes.) If oiling doesn’t help, or doesn’t help for more than a day or two, sterner measures are required.

Rotary Valve BearingEnd play is corrected by machining off the underside of the bearing plate where it sits on the casing. This moves the thrust bearing lower in the casing and takes up the excess play.  If the cap doesn’t hold down the plate the threads are shortened till the cap sits on the bearing plate instead of the outside of the casing. Some people will try to adjust the end play by inserting shims. We find this method unsatisfactory because it’s only an approximate adjustment and shims can fall off, get lost, etc. We believe firmly that the instrument should be set up so that it can be taken apart and put together by someone with no special skill without any problems.

Once properly adjusted a set of valves that is reasonably well maintained should retain their adjustment for years. So, if your valves have any problems get them fixed and then keep them oiled.

We correct end play as part of a Complete Valve Service.  We also offer individual End Play Adjustmentsand Bearing Adjustments (End play and side play). Follow the links to learn more.

(Thanks to Gebr. Alexander for the fantastic valve pictures)

 


New Engelbert Schmid Price List

May 8, 2010

All the recent financial turmoil in Europe has had one benefit for US horn players: The decline in value of the euro has made our Engelbert Schmid horns less expensive. Our standard Schmid double is now over $1000 less expensive than it was a year ago. (We’ve got a new one coming in this week). I’ve updated our price list. You can see it at http://www.osmun.com/prod/Schmid/schmprc.htm. Plus we have pages of information about Schmid horns at osmun.com.


Schmid Prices Lower

February 4, 2010

The dollar is still gaining strength against the euro so we’ve been able to reduce prices on our Engelbert Schmid instruments. You can see the current price list at http://www.osmun.com/prod/Schmid/schmprc.htm.  We currently have double and triple horns available.


Alternate Horn Mouthpiece Shapes

December 28, 2009

This diagram reperesents three stock shapes for Osmun horn mouthpieces. The shaded area is our standard blank. Then green lines show our #2 blank. It adds about twenty percent more mass to the standard blank and has a little more core and stability at the expense (we think) of tone color.  The red lines outline our heavy blank, which is fifty percent heavier that the standard one.  It is extremely stable and focused but the extra weight makes it more fatiguing to play, especially in the upper register. The heavy blank can also be supplied with ribs, which lessens the weight and increases the surface area.


Lower Price on Schmid Horns

December 22, 2009

Don’t ask me why, but the dollar has risen substantially against the euro in the past month. So much, in fact, that we’ve been able to substantially reduce the price of the Schmid horns currently in stock. This is probably a blip but it’s a good time to order a Schmid.  Orders for future delivery will be at the new prices, too. You can see the instruments in stock at osmun.com.


What a Pain!

December 4, 2009

Engelbert Schmid, in our opinion, makes the best horns in the world, bar none. They sound great, are marvellously even and in-tune, and are built like jewelry. But even the best horns aren’t perfect.

In years past Schmid horns had a problem with stop arms breaking (usually at the most inopportune time). This was never an issue for most owners but it happened often enough to be a concern.  The problem was in the design of the stop arm. The arms broke at the point where the shaft meets the body. The sharp corner provided a natural breaking point and focused all the stress in the stop arm at one point. ( Fig. 1)

Old style stop arm Click for larger picture

Fig. 1

New-style Schmid stop arm Click for larger image

Fig. 2

Schmid corrected this problem by redesigning the arm so the shaft had a fillet at the point where it joins the body of the arm. (Fig. 2) This little bit of extra metal absorbs the stress from the shaft and distributes it over a much wider area. The result is a much stronger and less failure prone part.

Here at Osmun we’re pants and suspenders guys. We figured we could make this part even stronger by replacing the original plated brass screws with 8mm long stainless steel screws. (Fig. 3)

Schmid stop arms with screws-Click for larger picture

Fig. 3

These screws extend the full length of the stop arm shaft (the screws are shown 1mm extended to alow for the thickness of the string) and replace an empty threaded hole with a solid stainless shaft that is very unlikely to break, ever. We also have 5mm screws available. They’re not the total solution the 8mm screw are but they can be installed without re-tapping the stop arms.  Since we instituted this practice we’ve had no broken stop arm problems.

Schmid stop arms and screws are available at in the Parts section at osmun.com.


Follow

Get every new post delivered to your Inbox.